October 2024: Diversified Plain Weave
Woven by Carol Buchmiller
Diversified plain weave uses fine and heavy threads in both warp and weft to produce a fabric with pattern against a plain weave ground. I was looking for something different that qualified as a tied weave for my structures study group and diversified plain weave seemed to fit the bill. The fine warp threads alternate on shafts 1 and 2, and the thick warp threads form pattern on shafts 3 through 8. Each threading unit is three ends--thin-thick-thin—with both thin threads on the same shaft. So, unit A is threaded 2-3-2, unit B is 1-4-1, unit C is 2-5-2, and so on. Treadling units are the same.
Sett is supposed to be for balanced plain weave if the heavy yarns were used alone, with each thin-thick-thin unit in the same dent of the reed. This probably works for threads that differ greatly in size but not, I found, for finer threads like the ones I chose.
My first attempt was 8/2 bamboo with 16/2 cotton; my second attempt (this sample) 8/4 with 16/2 cotton. In both cases I had to re-sley a few times to get a fabric that worked. But it did work! The fabric has a pleasant pebbly texture which washed up beautifully and required only light ironing. The 8/4 and 16/2 combination is a bit heavy for towels but might make good placemats or dishcloths. 8/2 and 16/2 in cotton would make a good towel, I think. I plan to keep experimenting.
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Structure: Diversified Plain Weave
Pattern Source:
Strickler, A Weaver’s Book of 8-Shaft Patterns, Chapter 17, #585
Yarns:
Warp – 16/2 cotton, 8/2 cotton doubled, natural
Weft – 16/2 cotton, 8/4 cotton, marine blue
Sett:
30 epi, 24 ppi
Finishing:
Machine wash warm, tumble dry, light press. Shrinkage 18% in length, 10% width
Loom:
Macomber B5 12 shaft, 8 shafts used. This loom has two warp beams, so to help manage tension between the two threads, I put the fine threads on one beam and the thick ones on the other.
Downloads:
Drawdown (.PDF)
WIF
Bio:
Carol Buchmiller is a longtime knitter who started weaving in 2016 in an attempt to use up her yarn stash. Now she has a weaving stash and a growing collection of looms.
